Sport Climbing - A Faker's Guide

“Gen up to blag your way through pub climbing chats”

Climbing is a sport that is forever changing, its course is not dictated by some committee or governing body it is driven and generated by the people who participate. The potential of the sport is endless limited only by ones imagination and ability. No empowered individual stets the rules the direction or the ethics of the sport they are purely made up of the views of the collective.

There are more variations on the sport that is generally called “climbing” then ever, and it has come a long way since the pioneers first looked at British rock as a training ground for the Alps and the greater ranges.
Sport climbing is just one of the endless variations that now make up one of the fastest growing sports in Britain . A form allowing all abilities to get onto the rock also making routes with no place for trad gear possible.

So what is sport climbing?

To sum it up in a nutshell its indoor climbing outdoors (sort of).
A sport climbing crag will have bolts (metal rings or brackets) glued or cemented into the crag at reasonable intervals very similar to an indoor lead wall.

At the top of the crag there will usually be a larger metal ring secured to the rock which you can us to either lower off to the ground (single pitch) or belay off (multi pitch).

Because of this preplaced gear in the rock sport climbing is very accessible to everyone and with the minimal amount of gear and knowledge, getting you off the wall onto the rock.

What do you need to know before cranking up your first sport climb?

• Not a lot is the answer, well not compared to other forms of climbing.
• Safety is always key as with any climbing, just because the bolts are there when you get there don't assume that they will stay put if you fall, there is always a risk they won't.
• Tying in is where it all begins. A re-threaded figure of eight is best with a nice tail on it.
• Belaying is the backbone that climbing is built on and correct technique is key.
• Belaying a leader is different to on a top rope and you must learn this first before dropping your mate on his head.
• How to clip quickdraws on the lead.(see diagram)
• How to lower off correctly (See Diagram)
• Grades sport climbing is usually graded on the French scale similar to the British tech grading (roughly subtract two grades to go from French to British e.g. 6b French = 5c British).

Kit required:

• Harness
• Rope (Single usually best)
• Quickdraws usually about 10 or 12
• Screw Gates
• Belay device
• 120cm sling

Where to go?

Britain is not as big on sport climbing as our European counterparts but it is getting more and more popular.
Most of the best routes in Britain are in the harder grades f7a and up. There are quality routes to be had at lower grades but you may need to venture further. The south coast of England for example Devon and Dorset, a visit must be made to the mind blowing Portland.

So next time some one asks you what you think of sport climbing you'll at least know what there talking about.