God's own County - Northumberland

"Northumberland"

There's old English saying it's grim up north and their so right, that's what we tell them anyway and that's why the crags and hills are virtually empty.

If you're tired of the crowds in the lakes and queuing for routes then Northumberland is the border county for you. If you haven't been then you are certainly missing out because if its cragging or bouldering you're after then it's the dogs bollocks.
There has never been a better time to visit Northumberland, there's a new guide book covering all the crags in the county, with fantastic comprehensive photographs instead of the usual back of a napkin style diagrams so you shouldn't wonder off onto an E8 by mistake.

So ok there is not exactly and big mountains or mountain routes but what it lacks in altitude it makes up for in other ways, the walk ins are short which is always a bonus, especially if you decided to sample the local night life and Ale. With over 34 crags and 18 bouldering areas there's so much climbing to be done you may never leave.

What its Like?

The climbing is varied and interesting through out the county from the blocky Peel Crag to the smooth walls and overhangs of Back Bowden Doors. Most of the routes are single pitch so it's perfect for those chilled days out and all the crags have a good range of grades. The rock is sandstone, sandstone and yes more sandstone (and a bit of other stuff) so if you like it round and sloping than this is the place for you. Top techniques for bouldering here are mantle shelfing and slapping for big round holds.

Top Day Out

For me the best day out in Northumberland has to be cragging at Kyloe Crag and then in the evening head down to Bowden for some top quality bouldering.
Kyloe crag s situated just off the A1, 5 miles north of Belford next to the village of Lowick which has a pub - always good to know. It's Southwest facing and there is only a ten min walk in just enough to get the muscles working before the climbing starts.

The climbing is not bad either with 95 routes in total 34 up to VS the rest spread form there up to E6 with names as memorable as “Fat Salgs” it's a gem of a piece of sandstone and not to be missed. Recommended climbs on this crag are:

• Christmas Tree Arête D
• Deception Crack HS 4b
• Tacitation Vs 5a
• Coldstream Corner HVS 5a
• Australia Crack E3 6b
• Original Sin E4 6a

So once you've pushed your self up some of Northumberland's best routes and had your fill at the local pub the last thing you might feel like doing is bouldering but suck it up because you don't want to miss out.
Head south down to Bowden Doors and switch to the bouldering guide you wont be disappointed. With problems by climbers such as Jerry Moffat (Born Lippy 6c) and Malcolm Smith (Flying Stag 6c) it has challenge to offer.

The crag itself is west facing perfect for evening sessions as the light is fading. The problems are varied and interesting with a large rang of grades. No few problems can be recommended my advice is to go and try, the cave area is definitely not to be missed.

Things to try before you leave

• Drink a Bottle of Newcastle Brown Ale must be bought in Newcastle and drank form a half pint glass!!
• Eat a Ham and Peas pudding Stottie (that's a sandwich to you non Geordies)
• Visit the Robin Hood tree at the end of crag Lough you know the one at the beginning of the film.

Useful links for Northumberland

www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk
Does what it says on the tin

www.thenmc.org.uk
Home page for the Northumberland mountaineering club (publishers of the guidebook)

www.smartboysonline.co.uk
General info on the Northumberland scene

www.wildtrak.com
Biggest climbing shop in Newcastle

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